In, Nepal

Abode of Snow --

Few places on Earth emit words of beauty and death into each sentence that is spoken about it. We know this place as Himalaya, Nepalese know it as the abode of snow. Home to our world’s ten tallest mountains and an extensive river network that serves over 600 million people down range, this is where I begin a first-ever solo trek away from the cozy tethers of America life. Since I was young, the idea of this place mystified and frightened me - a kind of dream plot where when awoke, was quickly returned from the distant planet I was contriving on. I'd come to see Nepal as a place to eventually travel - when I was courageous and prepared - but today, I board a flight for Kathmandu.

Nepal instils in us what is rare in the world - a coming to terms with untamed natural beauty and the fear that follows it. I’d read many tales of victory and defeat from people who’d found won on a spiritual or physical journey, and those who'd found serious injury or even death. Endearment lived in this challenge, for I would face the purest test of physical, emotional, or spiritual aptitude. The endless turns of crumbling paths, rogue storm patters, and unstable society in Nepal - my fears and limitations would be thrown out, for the mountainous air to devour me.

Getting to The Circuit

After 8,000 miles, 25 hours of air travel, 3 countries, and a cross over the dateline, I’d arrived in Kathmandu. Finally, with a mouth full of personal firsts. First time out of North America, first time on a plane longer than 5 hours, first time ever been completely alone, first time being a stray in a world of total unknown. Chills return each time I read those sentences. Upon landing late into the night, I had no plans for duration of stay, shelter, or how to attain a visa - second thoughts rushed over me before leaving the tarmac. Within minutes of entering the country, I was stuck with no rupees, ATMs that were out of cash, and a serious case of cross-planetary-travel-smells. After hours of back and forth with Nepali officials, I was allowed to pay by credit card. Within minutes of leaving the airport, a barrage of cab drivers, hostel workers, and scammers flocked - even going as far to pull my arm one direction or another. I was running on absolute fumes and grew anxious each minute that I stood there. Finally, a guardian angel came a long, a la another traveler who was equally disgruntled. We shared a cab and found rack for the night. 

After that night, I learned quickly that Nepal was in a state of organized chaos. A 7.8 magnitude earthquake had struck only eight months earlier, and a humanitarian crisis that sounded to be caused by the government - meant that fuel, road, and building infrastructure was in disarray. People seemed desperate. Tourists had turned back for fear from these recent dangers, leaving tourism in a 60% lull for 2015. I was hopefully here to help, even understanding that spending my hard earned money would help. Rebuild efforts were also prioritized on getting tourism restored, leaving a lot of Nepali homeless.

Thamel, In Preparation

The first leg of the trip started in the Thamel District of Kathmandu. Friendly locals, bustling markets, and travelers preparing for a similar trip as mine, made it easier to meet acquaintances. After 5 days in Kathmandu, munching on Momos, buying gear, and drinking uneffervescent beer - it was time to head for the mountains. I had no idea what was coming, for 9,000 feet of climbing, several days of altitude sickness, food poisoning, and a decision to turn back, eventually altered my experience. This was the nature of mountain village trekking, with minimal services available. If you made it so far, there was actually no turning back. People were airlifted out, often. The route we took looped around the Annapurna I, II, III, and South Mountains, extending 18 days, 180 miles, and 16,000 feet of elevation change. Situated northwest of Kathmandu, we made our way by an 8 hour bus to the start in Besisihar. The trek begins in the morning.

Trekking in Nepal is perfect for the ultralight backpacker, meaning that all your shelter, bedding, and food is provided along the way (around $20 USD per day). No need to to carry more than 15–20 pounds of warm clothes and smell remedies. Me on the other hand, messed up, bringing all of my travel possessions (around 40 pounds), absolute overkill. To relearn my lesson, here’s a review of some of the junk I brought along: a laptop, solar charger, 4 pairs of extra clothing, 3 pairs of shoes, a first aid kid (there are free clinics on the trek), and travel sheet (threw that out after three days)

Of the trekkers met along the way — nomadic, under prepared, and dedicated describe a few of them. Each of us were passing alongside one another for those seventeen days, telling stories and learning about each other. All working each day to eventually reach Thorong La Pass at 17,700 feet, we kept each other in good spirits as we rose. Fitted with vast 8,000 meter mountains, grueling physical challenges, and volatile weather conditions for hundreds of miles in any direction, Annapurna proved to be a tough and dangerous challenge. Just a year before we made Thorong La, in the exact point where we stood, 42 people died in a freak cyclone. Brings you to terms with both the nature and severity of such a place.

Within our group, David (AUS), Andrea (ITA), Raj (NEP), and me (USA), was a generous mix of cultural, nature competent, and linguistic diversity. None of us met until our ride to Besisihar either, which was a huge risk considering we’d be sharing our room, funk, and company for the next three weeks. Raj, who I’d now call a friend over just a guide, helped me through five days of bad altitude sickness and stomach dysfunction. Unable to keep food down or maintain strength, he helped me by carrying some of my gear on our hardest day. I can safely say my ability to make the pass was made possible by him.

Hanging out at the roof of the world is a life altering experience, knowing that all you know and love is below, on another planet. Through never ending bouts of pain, empathy, sweat, and stink, the opportunity to radically change my perspective of nature and the human experience was in abundance.

Another important lesson I learned is that no matter where you’re from, nature connects everyone. People from everywhere came together in a simple space, leaving religious, financial, and political differences at home. I met, hugged, and high-fived strangers from Ukrainian, Russia, Netherlands, Germany, Iceland, America, Nepal, Italy, Belgium, Whales, Turkey, Australia, and Canada along the trek. No matter how different we all were in nearly every way, we all had a common genetic passion for the outdoors. Numerous times I chatted, laughed, and drank with Russians, who to my bubble deprived brain thought we would naturally bump heads.

All-in, the trek cost around $500 for 17 days with a guide. On average we spent around $1 per day for accommodations (Snicker Bars were more), $15 for meals, and another $5 on BonBon cookies. My justification beyond the beauty and kindness of Nepal looking back was having the opportunity to interact and befriend so many people from around the world. Even if you hate nature, having access to such a full and friendly international network of people is worth your investment. N.E.P.A.L. Never ending peace and love.