Rock climbing 101, 201, 301

Terminology

Like so many other sports or niche communities, rock climbing has its own way of speaking. When you reach an advanced stage, you’ll start to recognize all the crazy terms like “gaston” or “piton” but for now, let’s start with the basics. Climbing up a rock wall on a rope is generally referred to as “sport climbing”; this also means that there are already bolts in the wall and a built-in anchor at the top of the climb. If there’s nothing on the wall and you have to place your own equipment to climb, this is called “trad climbing”. Climbing a rope that someone else has already put up inside or outside is called “top roping” whereas putting the rope up yourself is known as “lead climbing.” Those people marching to the crag with big looking pads strapped to their backs? Those are crash pads used for “bouldering”, a type of climbing that doesn’t require ropes or harnesses and is lower to the ground.

Every climb, whether bouldering or lead/top roping, has a grade to demonstrate how difficult it is. Bouldering is on a “V” scale with V0 being the easiest grade and going up to the new world record of V16. Wall climbs are based on the Yosemite Decimal System. Each grade starts with a “5” which simply means that the class of climb is on a wall. The number that comes after it signifies the difficulty of the climb. A 5.7 climb, for instance, is extremely easy while a 5.14 is extremely hard. Within each grade, letters can also be assigned to describe the difficulty further—a 5.12a is easier than a 5.12b. I know, it sounds like a lot but essentially the lower the number is any case in climbing, the easier the climb. Following a route or bouldering problem indoors at a rock climbing gym means following the same colored holds or tape for that route.

Gear

If you’re not looking to make any investments in rock climbing yet, renting or borrowing gear is a great option. Climbing gyms have shoes and harnesses for rent though you’ll need to get your own chalk bag and chalk (this helps maintain the friction and dryness of your hands while you climb). If you decide to invest at the next level, buy your first pair of shoes which will cost anywhere from $70-$170 though the higher end are more nuanced shoes that a beginner won’t get much benefit from. A harness will only set you back about $30-$50 so if you’re paying for renting harnesses at the gym multiple times, this can be a solid buy. With these basics, you’re ready to jump on a rope or try some boulder problems. These are the very basics and depending on your commitment to the sport, you can later invest in your own belay device, rope, crash pad, helmet, and more!

Pointers

One of the biggest misconceptions about rock climbing is that the power and strength all comes from your upper body. While upper body strength is important, it’s really the lower body that powers each move—you should be moving your feet up the wall first and using your legs to push yourself up to the next hold. This is why there’s a saying in the rock climbing world to “climb like a girl” since women’s power comes from their lower bodies. Women are also at an advantage of having more awareness and control over their bodies which comes in handy when you need to delicately balance on small holds and hold your core to keep close to the wall.

If you’re meeting a friend or other climbing partner at a gym or crag for your first rope climb, they can help get you situated on the rope for the first time. The climber gets tied into the rope using a “figure 8” knot which they can tie for you and hopefully, you’ll learn to tie over time! A series of commands is expected when rope climbing so that you and your belayer (the person on the non-climbing end of the rope) are ready and safe for climbing to begin. The climber begins by asking, “On belay?” to which the belayer responds, “Belay on.” The climber then says, “Climbing,” and the belayer responds, “Climb on.” This ensures that the belayer is ready to start belaying when you climb and that both parties are ready.

Areas to check out

I spoke with Flash Foxy, on organization dedicated to celebrating women climbing, about their favorite areas to climb. The first is Rocktown in La Fayette, Georgia. They recommend this crag for its variety for all types of climbers. “Beginner climbers and veterans alike will enjoy themselves—with some incredible sandstone boulder clusters and over 500 established problems spread out over a large area.” Next on the list, the Buttermilks in Bishop, California, the site of one of Flash Foxy’s annual women’s climbing festivals held in March each year. This world-famous climbing destination has both a history in climbing and with the native Paiute Tribe that calls it home. This area is all bouldering so leave the ropes and harnesses at home and get ready to tear up your fingers on this unforgiving granite rock. Lastly, South Lake Tahoe in California is a great spot for climbers of all levels to experience amazing views and crisp mountain air. There are many different areas for bouldering and plenty of granite walls to climb.

More Tips from Flash Foxy

First and foremost, climbing is meant to be fun! Don’t get wrapped up in what other more experienced climbers are doing. Focus on you and your climbing journey. It’s different for everyone and that’s what makes climbing so interesting and unique.

You can learn a lot by watching other climbers. When I first started climbing, seeing how varying body sizes and shapes did routes differently helped me understand movement on the wall. There’s never one right way to do something.

Climb with people you trust and have fun with. Having complete confidence in your partners is key to keeping a clear mind and being able to focus on what you’re doing on the wall. Knowing they have your spot or a safe belay can make or break how you perform.

Be safe! Know how to fall if you’re bouldering and to be a conscious spotter for your partners. Do regular safety checks if you’re on ropes and communicate with those around you.

If you’re climbing outside, educate yourself on the area. Know if they have any restoration acts in place. Do not leave trash and pick up what you see. If you’re bringing your dog be mindful of how that affects others and the area. Be a good steward of the earth and respectfully educate those who aren’t.

If you ever have questions ask someone at your gym, watch a YouTube video or ask a fellow climber. There’s a huge amount of knowledge out there and you should never feel siloed or alone! Everyone was a new climber at some point and we’re all here to help!