Hit 2 birds with 1 stone and summit these two legendary peaks in the beautiful San Juan Mountain Range! 

Drive up to Yankee Boy Basin and park at the switchback marked on the map. This location has space for a couple cars and sits directly below the peaks you will be climbing. 

Make sure to have pictures of the peaks so you know what you are looking for. If you do this, route finding will not be an issue. 

To get to the base of Coffeepot, you will have an annoying class 3/4 scramble up scree that does not want you to have a good time. Power through this until you reach a grassy and sometimes sandy ridge line. Follow it up to the obvious summit block. The summit pitch has visible webbing at the top, so you will know it when you see it. My partner and I free soloed to the top, but if feel more comfortable roping up, then do so. The rock is often very loose. The climbing is rated at about 5.2.

Get on top, enjoy the view, eat a quick snack, and then down climb back to the base (or rope up & rappel down if you feel the need).

From here, you are going to traverse around the east side. Across the way, you will see what is called the Black Gully. Its name says it all. Follow the game trail that descends and then heads toward this gully. Scramble up it and traverse to Teakettle's summit block. Again, my partner and I free soloed this peak as well, but if you feel necessary, rope up.

This summit is tiny, with only room for two or three people. Be aware of your surroundings. Down climb when you are ready to get back down(or rope up & rappel down if you feel the need).

After all of this excitement, you will backtrack to the base of Coffeepot, and down the scree field. 

This combination of peaks is very rewarding, but make sure to start your day early so you aren't stuck up high with a thunderstorm rolling in. These routes are simple enough to complete, but should also be done with caution, by people who have a fair amount of experience.

Coffeepot Peak: 13,568ft

Teakettle Peak: 13,819ft

Enjoy! 

Pack List

  • Hiking Shoes
  • Sunglasses & Sunscreen
  • Water
  • Snacks & Lunch
  • Rainjacket
  • Climbing Shoes
  • 30m Rope & Small Rack & Harness (optional depending on whether you plan to rope up or not)
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Activities Hiking, Rock Climbing
Skill Level Advanced
Season Summer
Trail Type Out-and-Back
Features
Forest
Scenic
Waterfall
Wildflowers
Wildlife

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Please respect the places you find on The Outbound Collective.

Always practice Leave No Trace ethics on your adventures. Be aware of local regulations and don't damage these amazing places for the sake of a photograph. Learn More

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