Added by Cat Ekkelboom-White

The easiest of the multi-pitch routes on the iconic Martinswand sport climbing wall in Innsbruck

The Martinswand is Innsbruck's legendary multi-pitch sport climbing wall.

The route "Emmentaler" is the easiest of the multi-pitch routes on the Martinswand in the area called the "vorbau". The route is named after the cheese most likely due to the multi holes in the rock. 

The Approach:

The approach is super short and easy. The closest parking for this route is the P3 area. Make sure to get there early in the summer and at weekends though as there are only a really small number of spaces. From the car park follow the path to the shed with the toilet and keep walking, following the signs towards the "Martinswand-Vorbau Routen". Then the path spilts you'll come to a junction for "Vorbau Routen (Section Bronchitis)". Emmentaler is the first route you reach.

The Climbing:

The climbing on this route is mostly on a slab. The holds are good and the rock is grippy. You just need to trust your feet in some places where the holds are a bit smaller. The bolts are generally pretty close together. There are only a few places where they are a bit further apart, mostly in the areas where the climbing is easier. The most difficult section is right at the end, right before the last anchor, where you have one short, steep section. It wouldn't usually be difficult on a single pitch, but here you don't have any communication with you belayer and a fall on this section wouldn't be ideal.

The biggest challenge on this route is the fact that you can always see or hear your partner, due to the noise from the road below which can be a challenge for belaying.

Difficulty grade - French 4a+/UIAA IV/V-. 
Route Length - 4 Pitches, 200m

The Descent:

From the top of this route there's a hiking trail marked with red markings on the rocks that leads back down to the car park. The trail is very exposed in places, so make sure you have good shoes for the hike back down.

Topo & Description (German): https://www.bergsteigen.com/to...

The whole of the Martinswand is south-facing, so I wouldn't recommend it in the summer as it gets extremely hot, but it's great for most other times of the year when there isn't snow on the ground. Just make sure you pack plenty of water and some snacks.

Gear:

  • Harness 
  • Helmet 
  • Quickdraws x 10-14 
  • Slings 
  • Screwgate HMS carabiners 
  • Reverso belay device(or similar) 
  • Rope 
  • Chalk 
  • Small backpack with water, phone, snacks, first aid kit & approach shoes

In the guide it recommended a single 60m rope, which is what we took, but the rope drag was pretty horrendous, so if you have double ropes, they might be more pleasant to climb with on this route as it does meander from side to side.

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Tags

Rock Climbing
Easy Parking

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